08 Xc90 Volvo Stalled While Idling With Ac on

Have you lot experienced volvo stalling issues?

Stalling bug when you finish for a traffic light or when idling:

A terminate light or idle stall often means the engine is not idling fast enough (idle speed besides low), or the engine is being lugged downwards by a load on it created by the air conditioning compressor and/or alternator. It could also mean the fuel mixture is too rich or too lean, causing the engine to run poorly. Possible causes that may contribute to this kind of stalling include:

If the A/C compressor is binding up, possibly due to a lack of lubrication, internal wear or an over-charged A/C system (besides much refrigerant), it may be lugging down the engine when information technology is engaged. If the problem merely occurs when the A/C is on, there is an event with the compressor.

If the bombardment is run downwards and the alternator is working hard to recharge information technology, the increases load on the engine may pull down the idle rpm to the bespeak where it causes the engine to stall. Bank check the bombardment state of accuse to see if the bombardment is run downwards or failing. If the battery is low, use a battery charger to recharge information technology, or drive at highways speeds for half an hr or so. If the battery is failing and is not holding a accuse, time to buy a new battery.

NOTE: Low voltage can adversely affect the functioning of the ignition system and fuel injectors, causing stalling and misfiring. A skilful charging organisation should produce about thirteen.5 to xiv.5 volts at idle.

Stalling issues unexpectedly while driving:

Stalls like this are frequently ignition-related and happen when the engine loses spark. The underlying cause is frequently a bad crankshaft position sensor, or sometimes a failing ignition coil (if the engine has only one curl). A faulty ignition switch that loses contact intermittently may also cause the engine to suddenly die for no reason.

When this happens, open the hood and check for spark. This can exist washed by pulling off a plug wire (if the engine has plug wires), and placing the end near the block while a helper cranks the engine. DO NOT concord the wire equally it may daze you if the ignition organization is working. If you do non see a spark or hear the plug wire snapping when the engine is cranking, the fault is in the ignition system.

If the engine has spark, it may have died due to a loss of fuel pressure. When fuel pumps fail, they usually just quit with fiddling or no warning. The engine normally won't restart and the vehicle has to be towed in for repairs. Listen for a fizz from the vicinity of the fuel tank when the ignition is turned on. No buzz means the fuel pump isn't running. It might just exist a diddled fuse or a bad relay, but on a loftier mileage vehicle it'southward often a bad fuel pump.

Eureka!! I think I solved the stalling problems!!!

I drove my Volvo on errands this morning, ending upward at the local automobile parts shop to purchase fuel injection force per unit area testing equipment. When I went to leave, it wouldn't start. Information technology was a warm California twenty-four hour period with the temperatures reaching into the xc'due south F. I sat with automobile for 2 hours trying repeatedly to get-go it. It would just creepo. My timing light indicated strong spark. I got a ride home and returned with my tools in another vehicle. I spent some other hour trying to figure out how to claw upwardly the exam equipment. Then a guy from the parts shop comes out and says that he thinks it is the fuel pump. He then hands me a rock and tells me to tap on the fuel pump a few times. This should knock loose anything that might be hanging upwardly within the pump. Then I take the rock, crawl under the car, and tapped the fuel pump about a dozen times. I get out, get into the car, turn the fundamental and it starts correct up! I immediately purchased a new replacement fuel pump, drove the car habitation and replaced the fuel pump. I am 99% sure that this will cure the trouble. I will cheque back in a couple weeks to allow you know how this is going.

October i, 2004

Later on four weeks, the car starts first time, every time. No more starting trouble. Both new fuel pumps did the trick!

Looking back, it is clear that the original in-tank pump was not working when I bought the car. I found fuse #11 blown a few days after buying the machine. I replaced the in-tank pump for good measure. Since I was going into the tank to look at it, it was easier to supervene upon at the same time than to put the old i back in. I discovered the old filter sock had deteriorated and had at least two holes in the sock. I suspect dirt entered the in-tank pump, fouling information technology and causing the fuse to blow. I further doubtable the main fuel pump was fouled with clay from the broken filter sock, which caused the intermittent starting.

Should you see a bad main fuel pump on your car, ever inspect and/or replace the in-tank fuel pump, so that you tin can verify the condition of the filter sock. A bad or deteriorated in-tank filter sock will lead to fouling both fuel pumps with dirt. (Should you lot become to the trouble of taking out the in-tank pump, you lot may besides supercede information technology while you got it out.)

Stalling Problems and Feul Pumps

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Source: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-stalling-problems-and-feul-pumps/

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